La Seconda Doccia Venerdì

April 22, 2022 – It’s now a week later and I am ready for my second shower Friday.

As a nod to our fabulous 6 week experience in Castellina in Chianti back in 2017, I booked my second Shower Friday at THIS hotel. It was in a lovely location and very close to everything I wanted.

I love the countryside in this region and am excited to visit the market tomorrow morning. On my drive into town I couldn’t help but pull over and take pictures of the beautiful landscape. This NEVER gets old and pictures just don’t do it justice. I checked in, explored the grounds, enjoyed a glass of wine and then took a nice hot shower before a delicious dinner. Yes, this is a 2 shower weekend!!!

Here are some highlights of the surrounding and the hotel grounds…

I completely misjudged dinner. I selected a restaurant near the hotel that had amazing reviews. After my shower, I threw on my leggings and a shirt, feeling refreshed and comfortable. When I walked in, the matradee gave my the full body once over, made a face, and then said yes, we have a table for you. It was early so I knew I was ahead of the rush.

After being seated at the table, the waiter came and asked about my water preferences, and I also ordered a bottle of white wine. He told me about the specials and I perused the menu. As I looked around the restaurant, I noticed that everyone was significantly more dressed up than I, in my VERY casual leggings. I looked around a bit more and noticed that the waiters were dressed to the NINES and everything was extremely high end. OYE!!! I was in a Michelin Star restaurant. OMG! I am now SUPER consious of how badly I am dressed. Oh well, nothing I can do now but to just enjoy it.

The food was AMAZING, albiet very small portions, but I savored every ounce of it. By far this was the most expensive meal I have ever had in Italy! The highlight…Luca Carfagno, the artist in Panzano, had designed their menus! LOVE!!!

In the morning, another hot shower and off to explore. Market day in Castellina…now moved from the small parking lot in town to the large parking lot at the north end of town. I did a little shopping and then headed out to play throughout the Chianti region.

I stopped in Panzano, just up the road, to see if I could locate Luca’s shop. I have the address in Google Maps but after walking in circles for at least 20 minutes, it became clear that the address provided is not a storefront. Boo! I wandered up to the top of the hill to see if that amazing restaurant right before the church was open but it still looks like it went out of business during or after Covid. Another grand Boo! Not only did they have amazing food, they had a spectacular terrace out back that overlooked the entire valley. OOO LA LA

I continued on to Radda in Chianti, a cute little town I have always loved. I wandered in and out of shops, bought a few things and then headed out. With my stomach growling, it was time to find a place for lunch. It was too early to eat in Radda so I had an epiphany…drive over to Volpaia and eat at Bar Ucci! Bravo!!!

The drive to Volpaia is beautiful, but then again, where isn’t that the case in the Chianti region. I discovered Bar Ucci in a book I read many years ago and then ate there for the first time with my friends Liz & Heather after we explored Castello Brolio back in 2017. We fell in love. Bar Ucci has a fun and interesting history, and Paola is a hoot.

See her story below…

“My name is Paola Barucci, I was born in Volpaia in 1963 and I have always lived here, in this delightful village which still moves me as it did when I was a child… some time ago. My wine bar is called Bar-Ucci: a way to remember how I was probably bound to run a bar with such a family name, and a way to be thankful to mum and dad. When you visit us, you will see the photos both of Volpaia and my family since the ‘40s, showing a poorer though sweeter and truer Chiantiland. My mum Gina makes cakes (and other good things) for me, and my big sister Carla with great care runs the well-known restaurant “La Bottega”, not far from me. Our family also includes Ombra e Pallina, our much-loved dogs. You can easily see them dozing when you get to the square.”